James R. Johnson ** USAforging@gmail.com ** 940 6274529 ** 2955 CR 1370 Alvord, TX 76225
Johnson Metalsmithing LLC Follow me on Instagram: http://www.instagram.com/james_johnson_anyang_usa
WARNING
Please be warned. Using these products can be extremely dangerous and can cause serious bodily harm.
You as the purchaser of the product are acknowledging the risks involved and accept full responsibility for injury and damages related to its purchase and use. You are therefore releasing our company, employees, and representatives from any and all liability related to its use.
Do not under any circumstances operate the equipment without training, eye, ear, and body protection. Do not make modifications to the equipment.
Power Hammer and Press Prices are subject to change
COPYRIGHT © 2010 ANYANG USA and JOHNSON METALSMITHING LLC - ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
Anyang USA Power Hammer and Hydraulic Press Since 1956
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Installing Your Power Hammer
1. I recommend putting a piece of 3/4" plywood between the hammer base and your concrete floor. I do not recommend rubber stall mats. Over time, they can absorb oil and deteriorate. They also tend to create a "bounce" that over time can pull up your anchors.
2. I recommend anchoring the hammer to your concrete floor. I have had good feedback on both mechanical anchors and epoxy anchors.
3. While it is optional, filling the base with sand can quiet the hammer. Filling the base with sand will require a forklift or a way to lift the hammer off the base. The following are the required steps to fill the base with sand:
1. Remove belt shroud. There are three bolts to remove, one on the top of the shroud and two securing the shroud to the base.
2. Loosen the 4 nuts on the motor mount plate. That will allow the motor to lift up where you can remove the drive belts.
3. Remove the cotter pin securing the foot peddle to the valve rod. Take a picture where you can assemble the way to took it apart. Remove the valve rod from the foot peddle.
4. Remove the 4 nuts securing the hammer frame to the base.
5. lift the hammer up where you can pour the sand in the base. It helps to use a lifting strap through the throat of the hammer and a motorcycle tiedown to the eye bolt on the top of the hammer. That helps keep the hammer straight when lifting. It helps to have a helper when you are lifting or resetting the hammer on the base.
6. Put a piece of tape to cover the two shroud holes in the base. That will keep sand out of the bolt threads.
7. Fill the base with sand. Dry construction or play sand seems to work best. The bases will require about 8 50 lb. bags of sand
8. Reassemble in reverse order.
4. There is a breathing port on the side of the hammer. If your hammer is close to an outside wall, you can port the exhaust outside the building and it will reduce the Db. of the hammer when idling. It is important that the hammer port has no restrictions, so minimize the distance and the number of bends. You can remove the pipe and replace it with a PVC threaded coupler. If you use PVC, remove the cover plate and grind down any PVC that is protruding on the inside of the plate. If it is sticking out past the plate, the connecting rod can collide iwth the PVC coupler. If your hammer is not close to an outside wall, you can run a short piece of PVC pipe into a bucket filled with metal shavings. The key to to make sure that there are no air intake or exhaust reatrictions. This step is optional but it will quiet the hammer at idle.